Explore the diverse artistry in the legacy of women fashion designers through The Met’s exhibit, “Women Dressing Women.”

by Marian Luisa Palo
Photos by The Metropolitan Museum of Art,
The Costume Institute, and Elizabeth L. Block (via Instagram)
December 13, 2023

A newly unveiled exhibit at The Met is retelling the legacy of women in the fashion industry. In an era where the limelight is directed towards a myriad of innovations, the exhibit aims to reclaim the center stage for names that built the fashion empire and are holding it sturdy.

What to Witness in “Women Dressing Women”

The Metropolitan Museum’s Costume Institute in New York opened its doors on December 7, 2023, for “Women Dressing Women,” a collection described as a lineage of makers from the turn of the 20th century to today. The exhibit will be on view through March 3, 2024.

In celebration of their forgotten histories, as well as fresh creatives of today, the exhibit showcases 80 garments by over 70 different designers in chronological order. This includes French haute couture from houses such as Jeanne Lanvin, Elsa Schiaparelli, and Madeleine Vionnet; American makers Ann Lowe, Claire McCardell, and Isabel Toledo; and contemporary works by Iris van Herpen, Rei Kawakubo, Anifa Mvuemba, and Simone Rocha. At least half of the garments are on display for the first time.

Divided into four sections, “Anonymity” sheds light on the history of garment making being perceived as 'woman’s work.' “Visibility” highlights the rise of women designers to leadership roles from secondary roles such as model makers, salespeople, and workroom heads, outnumbering men in the industry. “Agency” gives tribute to women designers’ emancipation in a competitive system, and “Absence/Omission” explores the designs of women who weren’t credited enough and given a space in traditional fashion narratives.

An Exhibit of Empowerment

Melissa Huber, associate curator at The Met’s Costume Institute and organizer of the exhibition, said in a press release, “Our fall exhibition will provide an opportunity to engage with the critical histories of innovative women designers, all of whom played pivotal roles in the conception of fashion as we know it today.”

Quelling a male-dominated society that has reflected the fashion scene, a prominent message conveyed is that in every creation that has graced the world throughout the years, a woman was behind it. “We aspire to dispel the stereotypes that women are more practical than men or that they all designed with themselves in mind," Huber said.

Max Hollein, director of The Met, also saw this as an opportunity to bring forth how their legacy even came about. “Fashion was a profession where women were permitted to work and make their living. So in that sense, fashion was a site of female empowerment, and it was a female emancipation in production, as well as consumption,” he said.

Not only does it play a huge role in sending out the message of women designers and their place in the industry, the collection also brandishes an array of designs that cater to diverse shapes, sizes, age, and gender, proving women as exceptional bearers of meaningful messages in fashion.

Redirection of the Fashion Spotlight

“Women Dressing Women” was originally supposed to be unveiled in 2020 in line with 100 years of women's suffrage but was delayed due to the pandemic. Although three years have passed for the exhibit to be possible, Hollein and The Met stood committed, saying ‘it's a major representation of the critical work of women creatives.’

Steering away from the real intention for the exhibit, it nonetheless is believed to embody a relevant thrust in today’s time. Industries, not only fashion, still continue to be overshadowed by men who debate over who has control over how women present themselves, as well as how women operate in the workforce. The delay need not be deemed unfortunate as it postures as a redirected idea for women, especially fashion designers, to stand their ground.

The exhibit is a gentle protest for women designers from different cultures and communities on how their artistry deserves to be remembered and celebrated. Clothes as materials stand the test of time—for all we know, they may live longer than us. In this element, the exhibit is a pathway for women designers to mark their creative trails, instill meaningful advocacies, and leave their legacy.