Why Michelle Dee’s ‘Mambabatok’ Gown is Worth More Than You Think
Delve into history and grasp why Michelle Dee's evening gown representing the Kalinga tribe’s traditions matter!
by Patricia Lanzagarita
Photos from Michelle Dee and Mark Bumgarner
November 22, 2023
In the recently concluded Miss Universe 2023, Philippines’ representative Michelle Marquez Dee flaunted not only her distinct Filipina beauty but also the rich and unique culture of the country.
She made heads turn and elicited expressions of awe after parading her evening gown, designed by Mark Bumgarner, which paid homage to the last 'mambabatok' or traditional tattoo artist of the country, Apo Whang Od, and the Philippine indigenous tattoo art.
Truly, the exquisiteness of this gown amazed us–or the universe, rather. Nonetheless, the concept behind it such as our culture and tradition made it more alive. As we enjoy the sight of its beauty, it is also this kind of platform that is necessary for passing on our rich traditions and customs to the next generation.
Diving into history, let's discover how this representation reflects our culture and tradition.
Reliving the millennium-old tradition
Hailing from the mountains of the Cordilleras, specifically in the province of Kalinga, Benguet, a 1,000-year-old customary tradition has persistently endured the changes of time—the art of ‘batok.’
Batok or batek is the method of tattooing a specific part of the body with tribal designs using the thorn of a calamansi tree attached to bamboo, which is then dipped in wet charcoal to produce natural ink. Within the renowned Whang-Od Buscalan Tattoo Village, you can find mambabatok, including the oldest of them all, Apo Whang-Od, at 106 years old.
Featuring various tribal designs such as centipedes, frogs, and rice grains, among others, Michelle, true to her identity and her prominent 'snake walk' pasarela, chose the tinulipao pattern, meaning snakeskin, for the intricate design of her evening gown.
In how she wore, presented, and adapted the pattern on the international stage under the spotlight of the whole universe, she also revived the dying culture of mambabatok.
Self-empowerment and heritage
In ancient times, Filipino women, particularly members of the Butbut Tribe in Buscalan, would often adorn their bodies with tribal designs upon reaching legal age to enhance their beauty. Meanwhile, men seeking tattoos were required to prove their worth before being inked. This practice explains why detailed patterns were predominantly found on the bodies of women and headhunters.
This tradition not only served to enhance their physical appearance but also to fortify their identity as women, men, and individuals. The patterns applied to this gown symbolize the rich heritage, timeless beauty, and identity of the Kalinga tribes, aligning perfectly with the message that Michelle and Whang-od aim to convey to the world.
Breaking the tattoo stereotypes
Modernity and globalization continuously reshape our traditions. Now is the time to challenge the misconceptions surrounding the choice to have tattoos. Just as the Butbut tattoos imply, the ink on the body goes beyond being a mere mark on the skin—it represents their beliefs and customs.
Michelle's representation on the Miss Universe stage sends a powerful message: tattoos should be appreciated as a form of art. Their beauty doesn't solely reside in their appearance but also in their profound meaning and significance.
While intricate details and powerful designs are visually striking, the true beauty lies in understanding the concept and essence behind each feature. This beauty becomes ingrained in every Filipino, much like how Michelle's evening gown resonates with us for the longest time.