Underpainting is Makeup’s Next Big Thing

Want your makeup to look like good skin and not like face paint? You might need to go from down-up. Change up your layers with makeup’s latest obsession—underpainting.

Words Aly Bautista
Featured photo by Hailey Beiber on Instagram
June 25, 2024

Makeup has no rules, and that is the best part about it. One person's 5-step routine might not be the same as yours, and we surely cannot expect both to have identical results, especially considering how makeup looks on different skin types and textures.

Thankfully, the beauty world is shifting towards a much cleaner and “less is more” aesthetic, finally paying more attention to the skin. After years of heavy makeup, an emerging trend is just what we need, gearing all routines into something more breathable. This art of “underpainting” is taking over the usual techniques, and people are loving it for obvious reasons! Here’s why.

Underpainting took the internet by storm after going viral on TikTok because of its unique foundation and contouring strategy. This is makeup artist Mary Phillips’ tried-and-tested technique, used on huge names such as Hailey Bieber and Kendall Jenner, both icons of the signature clean girl look.

But how does underpainting work?

It’s All About the Base

This method of achieving a flawless look lies in the ultra-thin base. When you think of Western makeup, we all envision something far from being ultra-thin. More often than not, it's actually the opposite, but this sudden change is garnering attention for good reason.

Rather than the foundation+concealer duo, underpainting’s base is more on the skincare side. More people are digging the natural, inner radiance effect. This preparation is the real star of this technique, blending everything seamlessly in a way that does not overpower the skin. With makeup brands integrating skincare into beauty products, achieving a soft finish has never been easier.

Everything in Reverse

This makeup technique’s success doesn't start with your typical order. The colors come from beneath, which means contouring and highlighting the skin is a must before applying foundation. This isn't just experimental; it actually makes it easier to tone down harsh shadows, preventing the common mistake of looking too ashy with cheek colors blending into one patchy pinkish-gray.

Perfect for beginners, sculpting your lines does not have to feel intimidating. Letting the natural glow peek through while still looking snatched is easy; you just have to switch things up!

Blush for the Natural Flush

Show your cheeks some love and go all the way with blush for a pop of color. Putting some hues on the high points of your face won’t hurt; in fact, it is the key to a great natural makeup look. Do it in red, pink, orange, or purple—it doesn’t matter. It might be layered under foundation, but it sure isn't going anywhere. Remember to blend it upwards for that rosy, lifted, and flattering effect!

Top It Off with Foundation

Foundation is no longer the star. It now acts as the blurring effect for everything that's been applied. Use just a tiny bit of light foundation or skin tints to add coverage where you want it most. Be careful to dab rather than rub to avoid erasing the products you’ve already applied. This is the final step, and you don’t want to start over from this small detail.

Ensure it lasts by setting your finished look with a mist of your favorite setting spray. Now you have your skin, but better.

You don’t need more tools for this—chances are, you already have everything in your makeup stash to try this viral technique out. Anyone can do this and nail it, even beginners—that’s the beauty of it. Now that you have a grasp on how to slay this TikTok-famous hack, go on and have fun with it like a pro!

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