Story on a Plate

Chef Tatung charts his own path as a chef, restaurateur, author and social media personality.

Written by Jewel Chuaunsu
Image courtesy of Kim Albalate
July 24, 2023

Filipino cuisine deserves to get the attention of the world, says Chef Myke “Tatung” Sarthou. Not only is it filled with so much history, but it’s also the perfect cuisine to go mainstream because it’s middle of the road in the best sense—neither too bland nor exotic, it can please many people. While Filipino cuisine may be underrated in the global food scene, Chef Tatung adds, “I think that we also shouldn’t really be too obsessed with making foreigners appreciate our cuisine. It is what it is. It’s really about making sure each Filipino eats deliciously at home. Of course, you want to be recognized, but we can’t look away from the fact that it’s also very important that we are able to feed our nation sustainably.”

As a chef, restaurateur, award-winning cookbook author, and host of the YouTube cooking channel Simpol, Chef Tatung knows Filipino cuisine. He was one of the highlights of Asia Madrid Fusion 2017 wherein he spoke about the undiscovered cuisine of Mindanao. He was also handpicked as the resource speaker for the Philippine episode of the Netflix show, Street Food.

“My body of work – not just as a chef, but even as an author – really is to understand the complexities of Filipino cuisine. It really gives us great insight into the national soul, into who we are as Filipinos,” says Chef Tatung.

Chef Tatung was in the media and music industry before he became a chef. Feeling burned out and disillusioned with the industry, he prayed and reflected on what he was truly good at and where he could be most happy. The answer that came to mind was cooking. “I think it’s really about finding your true purpose, which leads you on a spiritual journey,” muses Chef Tatung. “If this is for you, things will happen...once things become clearer, it just unfolds very organically.”

He started with a private dining concept, opening up his home in Quezon City. Building a strong following from his initial foray, Chef Tatung went on to open a number of restaurants, mostly with partners. Talisay the Garden Café, located in Maginhawa Street, serves regional dishes with a modern update in a homey setting. Pandan Asian Café in Tomas Morato is an invigorating experiment of connecting Philippine cuisine with the influences of our Southeast Asian neighbors. Lore in BGC highlights a 10-course feasting degustation that reinterprets Filipino dishes while retaining familiar flavors. Chef Tatung’s latest food concept is an American diner with a Pinoy twist, aptly named New York Cubao, in Robinsons Magnolia. The chef comes back full circle with Tatung’s Private Dining in his Antipolo home, where he offers a changing 10-course tasting menu anchored on our rich heritage.

The newest restaurant opened by Chef Tatung is Azadore in Scout Fernandez, Quezon City. With Azadore, the chef explores a unique facet of Philippine cuisine. “I try to tell different stories, different aspects, to understand the Filipino psyche,” he says. The menu is rooted in Filipino cuisine but combined with colonial influences, namely, Spanish and American.

There’s a set of dishes that are more American (or even Italian American) including Beef Ragout Lasagna, Azadore Cheese Burger, US Angus Ribeye Steak, and pizza. Spanish-inspired dishes include Croquettes with smoked bacon; Lola Pura’s Lengua ala Sevilliana or ox tongue with mushroom sauce; Ceviche Mixto with mixed seafood (squid, shrimp, and tuna) marinated in Tigre de Leche sauce; and Paella Mixta made with chicken, shrimp, clam, and chorizo. Chef Tatung clarifies that they’re not serving authentic Spanish dishes but rather Filipinized versions: “It’s our version of the paella, it’s our version of the ceviche, which makes it very Pinoy. This is really part of our heritage.”

Situated in a beautifully restored 1950s home reminiscent of the post-American era, Azadore is perfect for family-style dining and special celebrations. With its multi-level floor and spacious garden, Azadore is one of the biggest restaurants in the Scout area, with a seating capacity of 113 indoors and 200 in the Breezeway Terrace (al fresco area). Tasked with restoring and re-designing the restaurant, interior designer Ivy Almario chose to respect the house’s original layout while giving it a modern vibe. There are elements of midcentury modern, retro futurism, bold colors and graphics.

While Chef Tatung is well-known in Manila’s dining scene, he is also a popular YouTube star. In his Simpol channel, he teaches Filipinos how to cook the basics and whip up quick, no-frills dishes. “Simpol is under the belief that as long as you simplify things and make it easy for people to understand, even the most complicated stuff can be less intimidating and replicable at home,” says Chef Tatung, adding, “Right now, we know cooking is not just a hobby; it’s a survival skill. That’s the advocacy of Simpol... We really want to teach people how to cook because that will improve the quality of living of Filipinos.”

The Simpol videos led to a series of Simpol cookbooks, which Chef Tatung himself produces. These include Simpol the Cookbook, Simpol Kitchen Secrets, and Baking Simpol. Chef Tatung’s other bestselling books include Rice to the Occasion, Dishkarte sa Kusina, and Philippine Cookery: From Heart to Platter, which garnered one of the highest awards at the World Gourmand Awards.

The Simpol cookbooks are published by Vertikal Kreatives, a company Chef Tatung created to handle his media interests—from publishing, to production, to events. “It started as support for my own personal projects, but now it’s evolved into servicing other clients... We handle everything from book production, to editorial, distribution, marketing, and promotion.”

“I really want to push the limits and boundaries where I can express myself as a chef and also tell stories, being an author. That’s the reason I continually create new concepts rather than doing multiple iterations of the same concept. It still excites me, being in the creative process,” says Chef Tatung. He adds, “It’s really a balancing act of what you do for your soul and what you do for economics.”

Coming up is Chef Tatung’s Filipino deli concept called Tindeli, which will open at Gateway Mall this September. Currently in the works are one or two new restaurants and three more books this year.